Day 15 - Thursday 22 August 2024 – Alroy Station to Yowah and back to Alroy Station

Weather: Fine, 7.3ºC minimum

I have a great sleep and wake at 7:00 am, although I was awake for 30 minutes earlier. I get up at 7:20 am and it is now 10°C. I have a toasted bacon sandwich for breakfast. I have an early artesian bath and after that read the SMH. I then disconnect the Land Cruiser from the camper and then drive around the whole camping area. There are some nice spots up the end on the creek.

At 10:05 am I head off towards Yowah. The road is the same as yesterday, single lane tar. I arrived at Yowah at 10:35 am, 31.9 kilometres. I average 10.2 l/100 km, I was taking it very easy as I am in no rush. I go to the artesian pools, cost is $5 for the day, same as three years ago. There are two pools here, one warmer than the other. I go in the hot one, 39°C.

After this I walk around the town and notice the café is closed. No indication why it is closed. I later learn that there was supposed to be a power outage for most of the day but it only went for a short time. The owner decided to not open and perhaps has gone to Cunnamulla for the day. I go to the camping area, it has new showers and toilets since 2021.

I go back to the baths and speak to a bloke who is in the pool He is working on a TV show called Outback Opal Hunters. They are filming a new series here, the ninth I think. They have a day off filming today and later some other of the crew come and speak to him.

After the spa, I drive down to the caravan park. I had planned to eat lunch at the café, a hamburger was my aim. Earlier I spoke to the caravan park owner and he told me they had some frozen stuff which he could heat up. I buy a couple of sausage rolls and get him to heat one for me. I go to the park opposite and eat it there. I actually stayed in the caravan park in 2021, it was quite good and they have artesian baths too. See my pages on that trip for more information.

I head back to Alroy at 12:50 pm and arrive at Alroy at 1:20 pm. I average 9.3 l/100km for this, amazing. I put out my hammock and have a cuppa and read. I then go to the baths but I make it too hot at 40°C and cannot stay in for too long. I pack away the hammock which I had connect to a tree and my bullbar and then move the Land Cruiser back and connect to the camper.

I have finished the SMH and start a new book. I book Charlotte Plains for two nights from tomorrow, an expensive $56, especially compared to the $20 here. I should mention that there are very nice flushing toilets and showers here, better than the ones at Charlotte Plains. There are also lots of budgies around, in fact I have been seeing small flocks since Broken Hill.

I go for a walk to the end of the camping area and then to the road. I then follow the fence around and come back to my camping spot. There are lots more here tonight, only a few vehicles last night. I think there are four near me and ten by the creek. Despite this, it is not at all crowded. I get some more firewood from Mary when she comes around (Mac also came around and was a little more chatty than yesterday, I think he is quite shy).

I start the fire at 5:30 pm and have drinks. I cook sausages on my skillet over the fire and heat up a rice dish on it too. Later I have some ice cream (but no apple pie). I watch the NRL on my tablet and also have another spa bath. I go to bed when the NRL finishes at 9:50 pm, again is warm at 21°C.

Weather: Fine, max 26ºC Arrived: Alroy Station Time: 1:20 pm Distance: 63.1 kilometres

Day 16 - Friday 23 August 2024 – Alroy Station to Charlotte Plains Station

Weather: Fine, 12.3ºC minimum

Although it was cooler during the night, it is a lot warmer at 7:00 am when I wake (16°C). I slept very well yet again. I read the SMH and listen to the ABC News. I get up at 7:50 am and it is already 22°C. I pack up and leave at 9:20 am. It is now quite windy.

I travel back the way I came two days ago to Eulo where I arrive at 10:05 am. There is a fuel container in the main street next to the hotel and I decide to refuel there. However, I cannot get it to work. Unlike most of the ones I have used where you just tap your credit card before refuelling, this has a QR code which you scan. You then need to enter details into the website. I try a number of times but for some reason it rejects me. Luckily I have enough fuel to last till Cunnamulla.

I go to the park again and top up my drinking water container. I leave town at 10:16 am. I stop at Mirra Paroo Creek/Bow Creek at 10:42 am, 97.1 km today. I have morning tea here and notice that the police vehicle from Eulo goes past towards Cunnamulla. I leave at 10:50 am. I arrive in Cunnamulla at 11:13 am. I park near the bakery and then walk to the IGA. This is the closest I can get. I buy more bread and a few other things, $61.

I then drive to the fuel station on the northern side of the old railway station, much cheaper here. I take 102.8 litres at $2.00 a litre, $205.62. I have averaged 14.2 l/100 km since Tibooburra (725 km). I go to look at the free camping area but it is way out of town on the eastern side and it is not very attractive looking, wet and dry mud. I have already decided I will not stay here anyway since I have booked Charlottes Plains for the next two nights, but I may have come back after that.

I then drive to the new Cunnamulla Hot Springs. It is a very nice looking building and I go inside for a look around. There are seven thermal pools, sauna, steam room and more. They are excellent, that is for sure. However, the cost is $45 a person for the day ($35 concession), way too much considering what you can get at other places. I may have considered it if I was here early in the morning and could get a full day’s experience, but, no way.

I head out east on the Balonne Highway. This is a good two lane tar road. I arrive at Charlottle Plains Station at 12:50 pm. This time I go in the main entrance and as I get near this, I notice that the one I used three years ago no longer has a sign (it is the long way in). There are heaps of vehicles here and I notice a few changes. There is now a bar area near the main pools and also the road in has been moved to behind the bar and the other one removed.

I find a spot near where I camped in 2021 in amongst some trees. It is a quite warm 26°C so I want shade. I have lunch first and then set up. I walk to the new bar and also notice that there is a new toilet and shower block near me. I have a bath in one of the artesian baths near me and then read the SMH and mu book.

At 3:20 pm I go to the bar and check-in. Beers are $6 so I decide I might go back later for one. I count well over 70 vehicles here. I later walk to the large spa pool, it is very hot, 39°C. I am back at my camp at 4:55 pm. I decide that I will just have a drink here. At 5:20 pm I start a small fire and have drinks and nibblies and then reheat the last of the beef and rice I made days ago. Later I go to the baths near me. It takes ages to get warm water out of the pipe (it has to come hundreds of metres), I only get it to about 35°C.

Back at camp I listen to NRL on the radio, there is no phone coverage here. I go bed when it finishes, about 9:50 pm. It is still a warm 20°C.

Weather: Fine, max 26ºC Arrived: Charlotte Plains Station Time: 12:50 pm Distance: 185.2 kilometres

Day 17 - Saturday 22 August 2024 – Charlotte Plains Station

Weather: Fine, 15.8ºC minimum

I have a great sleep, I still cannot figure out why I sleep so well out camping compared to when I am at home. I wake at 6:30 am and discover that someone has a Starlink with no password on it. Well, I connected successfully and download the SMH for today. I also check my email on my phone. Thank you very much to the person who has no password. I also listen to the ABC news via the phone app.

I get up at 7:45 am and it is already 18°C, there is a very strong wind from the north-west. I cook some kranskies and have one on toast for breakfast. Put the others in the fridge. Since it looks like being a very hot day, at 8:55 am I decide to walk to the highway. I follow the tracks I drove in on. I end up opening and closing the gate for a few vehicles which are leaving. I don’t actually reach the road as at 4 kilometres I turn around. I get back at 10:35 am.

I have morning tea and read the SMH as I have a rest. I then walk to the main pool for a spa. I then have lunch and later a cooler bath near me as it is now 36°C. I make myself a cup of tea but it takes ages to boil the water as the strong wind is blowing out the flame. At 4:15 pm I go to the bar and have a beer with Eddy who I met earlier in the main pool. I end up having three Tooheys Draught cans with Eddy and some others. While here I use the small amount of free wifi to make phone calls to my ex-wife Kelly and friend John. Kelly and I discuss what to do with Veto’s ashes, but we do not make a final decision.

I am back at 5:30 pm and then fly my drone as the wind has died. It is still 30°C. I start a fire and get the remaining pork ribs ready by putting a dry rub on them. I listen to the NRL on my radio. I put the ribs on to cook in my small camp oven. They take a while as there are not many coals from the fire.

The Starlink has disappeared, I think that the person must have left, but it available again tomorrow morning as it turns out. The ribs are great and later I listen to Souths play Newcastle on the radio. Souths get shitted on, I end up turning it off before it is finished. I wash all my dishes as they are dirty from the dust. I go to bed at 9:25 pm, it is 22°C.

Weather: Fine, max 36ºC Arrived: N/A Time: N/A Distance: 0 kilometres

Day 18 - Sunday 25 August 2024 – Charlotte Plains Station to Wallum Creek, Bollan

Weather: Fine, 19.4ºC minimum

I wake at 6:00 am and download the SMH via the Starlink which is again visible. I also listen to the ABC news via the phone app. I read the paper and get up at 7:45 am. It is windy again from the north-west and 22°C. I have breakfast and pack up. At 9:15 am I move my car to near the bar. I go to the artesian pool and then to the nearest showers. However, I then discover that the showers here no longer work. I decide to forget about having one.

I leave at 9:57 am. I go back to the Balonne Highway and continue east. Yesterday some people told me about a nice camping area at Bollan. I decide to check it out. I have also discovered that the artesian baths at Mitchell are closed as a few days ago the filter died. I stop at 10:50 am on the side of the road for morning tea. I have come 60.1 km, averaging 13.1 l/100 km. I arrive at Bollan at noon. I drive into the Wallam Creek Camping Area and go right to the end before picking a spot alongside the creek just back a little.

I set up and have lunch. This is a very nice spot. There are toilets a few hundred metres from me and back on the highway more toilets and some showers. It is exactly 1.0 kilometres from my campsite to there. At 1:35 pm I walk to town. There are some nice old buildings, including the police station. The pub does not open till 2:30 pm and I find out it has dinner from 6 to 8 pm. I decide to come back for dinner tonight. I buy an ice cream from the general store (in an old warehouse I think) which is very well resourced. Luckily I had some cash as under $20 cash only.

I am back at camp at 2:30 pm, I walked 3.5 km. I the NRL on my tablet. I have a cuppa and read the paper at the same time. At 5:15 pm I walk to the showers. Very good and well setup with hooks and a seat. I then go over to the hotel for dinner. Tonight is pasta night it seems, a limited number of things. I think the chef has the day off and has made this up previously and it will simply be reheated and served by the staff.

Anyway, the staff are two girls from Florida. They have been in Australia for a year and want to stay longer so are working in the outback so that they can renew their visa for a year. They are also working at the café up the road. I have a XXXX Gold ($7) and then order the spaghetti bolognaise. It is only an average meal, my spag bol is many times better! I have another beer with dinner and then walk back to the campsite where I am by 7:00 pm.

I really like this camping area, so at the pub I made the decision to stay here another night. There are too many bugs out so I go to bed at 7:50 pm. I listen to the NRL and read for a while. It is still warm at 23°C.

Weather: Fine, max 31ºC Arrived: Bollan Time: 12:00 pm Distance: 140.7 kilometres

Day 19 – Monday 26 August 2024 – Bollan

Weather: High overcast, 20.2ºC minimum

I slept till 2:30 am, a fair while considering I went to sleep very early. However, I am then awake for over an hour and then sleep again till 6:15 am. I read the paper and get up at 7:35 am. This is much nicer than last week.

I have breakfast and then redo my intinerary considering I am not going to Mitchell due to the pool being closed. I decide to Thallon via St George and then to Goondiwindi. From there to Collarenabri, Walgett, Burren Junction and then I am not sure. I read the paper and put my solar blanket out as I am in the shade. I have to move it a lot to keep it in the sun. I later put my hammock up next to the creek and have morning tea. I finish the paper.

It is now sunny but cooler (even though it is 25°C) as the wind is from the south. I read in the hammock till 11:20 am when I again walk to town. This time I go around some of the back streets and then go to the information centre which is pretty good. I get back to the camper at 12:25 pm, having walked 4.2 km. I have lunch and then read some more in the hammock.

At 3:10 pm I take all my beer cans to the nearest toilet as there is a bin there for a local charity. I then look at the cemetery which is right behind the toilet. Lots of children as in most country towns, earliest I see is 1896. I go back and have afternoon tea and read more. There are more people camped near me than last night, later I count 35 vehicles.

At 4:30 pm I again walk to the showers (2 km return). It is very nice again. I am back just after five. I start a fire and then cook the other beef strip dish I purchased in Broken Hill. I cook onion with it and then have it in a wrap, a bit like a kebab. It was nice. Unlike last night, there are no bugs, I think the wind is keeping them away. I go to bed at 9:30 pm, it is 17°C.

Weather: Fine, max 25ºC Arrived: N/A Time: N/A Distance: 0 kilometres

Day 20 - Tuesday 27 August 2024 – Bollon to Thallon

Weather: Fine, 10.2ºC minimum

Once again I am awake overnight for over an hour, this time from 2:00 am. I also have a period of coughing for some reason. Later I fall back asleep till 6:30 am. As usual I download the SMH and read it as well as listening to the ABC Radio News from Sydney. I get up at 8:00 am. I have breakfast and read some more of the paper.

I pack up and then walk to find the Aboriginal scar tree that is supposed to be further down where I am. I looked yesterday but did not find it. I do this time, there is no sign apart from the one I saw as i came into the camping area. It is past the end of the camping and right on the creek edge. I move to the toilet and then at 10:00 am I leave.

I am again on the Balonne Highway. This section is pretty poor, with probably 33% in bad condition. I stop at a rest area at 10:45 am for morning tea, 58.7 km travelled. It is a nice 24°C. I leave at 10:55 am. The first 10 km is rough. I arrive at the St George Aquatic Centre at 11:35 am. It is 114.4 km to here.

I pay my $6 and go in and use the artesian pool. It is a nice 37°C. I spend 35 minutes in there. I then have a swim in the main pool, a cool 22°C. It is very refreshing after the hot water. I have another shorter time in the artesian pool. I then have a shower and leave at 12:40 am. I go into the Lifeline store (like a Vinnies) to look for a replacement wine glass for the one I broke at Mundi Mundi. I do find one.

I then to town to look for a bucket. I somehow lost mine, I can only think that someone nicked it when I was at Charlotte Plains. I need a certain size as it has to fit over my gas bottle. I only find a very expensive one at a hardware store and a flimsy one at a $2 shop.

I then go to the park by the Paroo River. This is very nice. I have lunch here. I leave at 1:35 pm and head south on the Carnarvon Highway and then take the Castlereagh Highway. I arrive at Thallon at 2:20 pm. I go to the free camping area which is between the sports ground and the silos. There are some wet spots here but I finally find a spot that is dry. I set up camp.

I then have a cuppa, fly my drone and watch a few Media Watches on the ABC iView app. I walk to the part nearest the silos and take some photographs. The silos have murals on them. I then walk to the Francis Hotel. We visited here last year when on our artesian baths tour. There are new owners, a young couple. I have a couple of XXXX Gold schooners at $8.

I am back at the camper at 5:30 pm. I have nibblies and make a pasta dish using a pack pasta and the kranskies I cooked a few days ago. I have done this before, it makes a very nice dish. I later watch the ABC TV News from Sydney on my tablet using the free wifi. At 7:25 pm I walk to the silos again and take some night photographs. I read some more and then go to bed at 9:25 pm. As every night, I read for 10 minutes or so before going to sleep.

Weather: Fine, max 28ºC Arrived: Thallon Time: 2:20 pm Distance: 197.4 kilometres

Day 21 – Wednesday 28 August 2024 – Thallon to Goondiwindi

Weather: Fine, 13.8ºC minimum

I sleep well till 4:00 am and for the fourth day in a row, I am awake for over an hour. I sleep a bit more but hear all the news for the next three hours. I read some of my book and then the SMH. I decide to swap the sheets on the bed again and get up at 7:45 am. It is now 20°C.

I have breakfast, pack up and leave at 9:35 am, it is again windy (from north-west) and 24°C. I travel the opposite direction to the way I came last year to Thallon, via a tar road to the locality of Dalmar and then a very good dirt road to the Mungindi Talwood Road. I arrive in Talwood at 10:41 am (77.4 km). I go to the Talwood Recreation Area where there is a camping area. It is very nice with toilets and showers. I have morning tea here.

I leave at 10:55 am and travel via the Barwon Highway to Goondiwindi. I arrive at the Goodawindi Holiday Park at 12:10 am. It is now 30°C. I check in (I had booked the site a few days ago) and find that it is a very nice caravan park with lots of room. I park on my site and straight away go to the laundry and put my washing on ($4). I then take my things to the kitchen and make my lunch. After this my washing is finished and I put it all on the clothes line.

I set up my camper and then disconnect the car. At 1:38 pm I leave and go to a fuel station just down the road. It is a self serve one and the fuel is a lot cheaper than others, including one next door. I take 77.31 litres at $1.779 a litre, $137.53. I have averaged 13.7 l/100 km. I then go into town and park in the main street.

I walk around, go to the hardware store but I find no suitable bucket. I have a look at other buildings, the art deco council and cinema, a couple of beautiful hotels and more. I then drive to the Gunsynd stature which is down on the McIntyre River. Gunsynd was probably the most famous racehorse of the 1960s and 1970s. Why is there a statue here? Well, he was from Goondiwindi and was known as the Goondiwindi Grey since he was, unsurprisingly, grey in colour.

From here I drive to the other end of town, but discover that the road I take is no longer a road, but the hospital has been expanded over it. I finally get to my destination, some sculptures on the river near the boat ramp. I also walk along the river for a distance. There are also some nice murals on a toilet block here.

I then go back to the main street and to the Gunsynd Museum which is in the visitor centre. This has a lot of information about Gunsynd, including photographs, trophies and jockey colours. I have come to realise that Goondiwindi is obviously a very prosperous town, as I have noticed that there are at least 8 Toyota Land Cruiser 200 or 300 series (mostly top of the range Saharas) and more than 10 Toyota Prados, again, mostly top of the range ones. Each time they are different vehicles.

After the museum I walk to the Victoria Hotel which is a beautiful old pub. I have a XXXX Gold for $6.50 (certainly is a great variation in pricing for this beer, $6.50 to $8). I am back at the caravan park at 3:35 pm. I collect my washing from the line as it is all dry. I finish reading the newspaper and then go to the pool. This is an artesian fed pool, the only reason I have come to the caravan park. It is only 34°C.

After about 20 minutes, I go back and read and at 4:45 pm I have a shower. I have drinks and nibblies at 5:15 pm and later go to the kitchen and reheat more of the beef dish and have it on a wrap. I watch the ABC News on the TV and at 8:10 pm I go back to the camper. I go for a walk to the road and head down one way and back the other before returning. I go to bed at 8:30 pm.

I noticed a few strange things here. One was that the caravan next to me was a pop-up one, but the person never popped it up. It must have been a bit cramped in there with so little headroom. The towing vehicle also had an interesting device inside, a steering wheel lock. This was the old-style one that you lock onto the steering wheel and which prevents the wheel being turned. I swear I have not seen one in close to 40 years.

The others were a caravan been pulled by a Toyota Corolla and another by a Suburu. The Corolla was pulling a small van but the Suburu was pulling a medium sized one. I cannot see that either would be legal.

Weather: Fine, max 33ºC Arrived: Goondiwindi Time: 12:10 pm Distance: 170.5 kilometres

Day 22 – Thursday 29 August 2024 – Goondiwindi to Collarenabri

Weather: Fine, 9.4ºC minimum

I slept well till 1:00 am when I was woken by lots of trucks going by on the nearby highway. I was awake for an hour and then the truck noise seemed to abate. I slept then till 6:00 am. I do the usual and get up at 7:30 am. After breakfast, I pack up and at 9:05 am I leave. It is now 19°C. I go to Vinnies to again look for a wine glass, no luck here either.

I leave town at 9:10 am and head towards Boomi via Carrigan Road, also called the Mungindi-Goondiwindi Road. This is a good road and at 10:25 am I arrive in Boomi. As I did when I came here last year, I go to the artesian pool. It costs $6 (I forgot to get the senior price of $5). There are plenty of people here. The water is 37°C. I then have a swim in the main pool, 25°C. I leave at 11:15 am and at 12:06 I arrive in Mungindi. The road here is also good.

I do not stop but continue on heading first south on the Castlereagh Highway and the turing right onto Morialta Road. This is tar to Morialta Junction. I get there at 12:37 pm, 195.2 km today. I decide to have lunch here but am a bit disturbed to see there is a sign on the other side of the intersection saying the road is closed. The alternative route is a lot longer.

While having lunch, a truck comes from that way. I call him on UHF40 and he tells me the road is certainly open all the way to the Gwydir Highway. I later realise I should have taken the road further to the west as it is a shorter route. A cropduster takes off to the west of me and heads east. I later see one go across the road in front of me. I leave at 12:52 pm and six minutes later I stop to cut some firewood. I leave 12 minutes later.

Anyway, the road is dirt from the intersection and apart from a couple of very short bad bits, it was a good single lane road. There was actually only 15 km of dirt I think as the last 9 km was also tar. I arrive at the primitive camping area to the east of town. It looks good but is very full. I go down to the Barwon River but there are few flat areas and these are already taken. I have back to the highway and towards town.

At the river there is a place next to the bridge that has people camped there. I drive in, it is very nice and there are no signs banning camping and there are garbage bins. I find a spot and park. It is 2:25 pm. I walk into town, it is 500 metres to the artesian pool and shop. I bought some Supaglue to fix the channel knob on my AM/FM radio which broke a week ago when it slipped off my chair. I later glue the knob back on and it now works okay.

I also unsuccessfully look for a cutting board as I fear I left mine at Goondiwindi. As it turns out, I find it again in a few days, it had slipped into a spot where I could not see it and it later bounced back to where I found it. For the life of me I could not figure out how I had lost it. The pool is excellent. It only opened last week and is free. There are toilets and showers too. My only quibble is that the toilets and showers have no hanging hooks, so it makes it hard to swap into swimmers.

I have a 30 minute spa (37°C) and then walk back to my camper. I set up, again finding the canvas has caught on the tubing and bent it again. I restraighten it the best I can. I have afternoon tea in the shade as I am sweating from setting up. I try to fly my drone but I find that I am too close to the airport. I am not certain why the area around some airports is banned totally while some are permitted after noting it. There appears to be no logic to it really.

I finish reading the paper and at 4:25 pm I walk to the Tattersalls Hotel. This has new owners from last year who have promised to have it open from 11 am each day. There are a quite a few locals here as well as a couple of tourists. I have two Tooheys Draught at $7.50 each. I speak to a few locals and they confirm it is okay to camp where I am.

I am back at the campsite at 5:25 pm. I start a fire and later reheat the rest of the pasta dish I made a few days ago. I watch the NRL on my tablet and then create a WikiCamps entry for the campsite. Later in early October I notice that WikiCamps says that this site is closed and the entry will be removed. Many people comment that it is still open and that locals confirm it is okay to camp there.

There are 11 vehicles camped here tonight. I should add that there are toilets a short walk across the bridge, perhaps 300 metres away. I go to bed at 9:45 pm when the football ends. It is 13°C.

Weather: Fine, max 25ºC Arrived: Collarenebri Time: 2:25 pm Distance: 281.2 kilometres

Day 23 – Friday 30 August 2024 – Collarenebri

Weather: High overcast, 11.1ºC minimum

I slept well till 3:00 am when 4 or 5 dogs across the river start barking. They keep it up for at least 30 minutes but I then fall asleep again. I wake at 6:00 am and then doze till 7:00 am. I get up at 7:15 am and walk to the toilets across the bridge. Not too far at all. The wind comes up from the north quite early. I have breakfast and finish the SMH.

At 8:55 am I walk to the artesian baths and relax in the hot water. I am back at the camper at 9:40 am. I put the solar blanket out and read some of my latest book. I have morning tea and at 11:15 am I go for a walk around town. I walk past the bowling club, the school, the Catholic and Anglican churches, and back to the main street where there is the derelict open air cinema. Many country towns used to have them, Cobar had one when I was working there in 1980 and Winton still has one.

I am back at 11:50 am. It is quite hot now, the wind warms it up to around 34°C a bit later. I have lunch and again walk to the baths. I am the only one there for quite a while till some others arrive. I am back at camp at 2:15 pm. I sit in the shade and read. The wind finally dies at 5:00 pm. There are about six vehicles here tonight.

Another strange on yesterday as a large caravan that was pulled by a Land Rover. When it first pulled up at first I thought why doesn’t the woman help the driver set up the van as they stay in the car. Later, I see two dogs there and I think “that was a dog on the passenger seat, not a woman�. Later I see the bloke sitting outside with his dogs and this morning I see again see him. He packs up and just as he is about to leave, a woman gets out of the van and into the car. What the hell! She let him do every bit of setting up and packing things away, staying in the van the whole time. Weird!

Anyway, I was going to cook a flat boneless chicken tonight in my camp oven but the wind made me change my mind. I decide to go to the bowling club for dinner. At 5:25 pm I walk over there, its only about 400 metres. I have a hamburger with the works ($20) and chips and three XXXX Gold ($6.50 each). The hamburger was good. There were quite a few other tourists here, some who I had spoken to during the day at the baths. I also chatted to a couple of locals.

I am back at camp at 7:10 pm and decide to watch the NRL on my tablet. However, Kayo won’t work. Turns out there was something wrong and about an hour later it is back working. Probably not great for me anyway as Souths lose easily to Penrith. It is now windy again and 26°C when I go to bed at 9:00 pm.

Weather: Fine, max 34ºC Arrived: N/A Time: N/A Distance: 0 kilometres

Day 24 – Saturday 31 August 2024 – Collarenabrie to Burren Junction

Weather: Fine, 18.3ºC minimum

I am woken at 1:15 am when the wind becomes very strong. The trees and canvas are making a lot of noise. I fall back asleep and when I wake again at 3:00 am it is calm. Strange. I sleep till 6:00 am and then read the paper and listen to the news. I get up at 7:15 am and it is windy again. However, the wind is now from the south and it feels much cooler than the indicated 21°C at 8:00 am.

I have breakfast and pack up. Earlier one vehicle had left at 6:30 am. At 8:40 am I drive to town and park up the street from the baths and head over for one last hot dip. I leave at 9:25 am. I head south-west on the Gwydir Highway and at 10:17 am I arrive in Walgett. I go to the artesian baths which are on the northern side of the town just off the highway. I have driven 74.7 km with a high fuel consumption of 14.2 l/100km as there has been a headwind all the way.

Despite having being to Walgett at least three times before, I have not been to the baths. Last year when we came through they were not open for some reason. The baths are a simple pool next to the town swimming pool. There is an Aboriginal woman in there with her kids. She tells me that she is a nurse and when she asks where I have been, she says she did a lot of her training in Broken Hill. The baths are a very nice 37°C.

I leave at 10:50 am and drive to the water tower on the southern end of town. This has a huge mural on its side of the Aboriginal singer Jimmy Little. Well worth seeing. I drive back into town and go to the IGA and get some bacon, bread and other stuff. I also check out the Vinnies for a crystal wine glass but no luck again. I have a cup of tea here too.

I leave town at 11:15 am and head north to the Kamilaroi Highway and take this east. I have been on this road twice in the past five years. I arrive at the Burren Junction Bore Baths at 12:25 pm. I go into the back camping area and pick the far left corner for my spot. I set up camp. The wind has now dropped too. I then have lunch and watch the rest of the third round US Open tennis match between Aussie Alex Poprin and Dokojvic. Poprin wins but loses in the next day or two.

At 2:00 pm I go to the baths for about 40 minutes. I come back and listen to the NRL while having afternoon tea. I am also reading SMH. I then fly my drone. At 3:50 pm I go for a walk on the roads behind the baths. I walk 2.3 km and then at 4:20 pm go to the baths again. I am back at the camp at 4:45 pm. The caretaker comes around to collect fees, I pay $10 for two nights ($5 pppn).

I start the fire at 5:00 pm as I am going to cook the boneless chicken in my camp oven. I put the oven on with vegies at 5:30 pm and about 10 minutes later put the chicken in. It is all cooked at 6:20 pm. The chicken is from Aldi and has spicy mango marinade. It is very good. I will have the reast of the chicken over coming days.

After dinner I go to the baths again and spend 30 minutes there. The temperature varies between 36 and 39°C depending on where you are in the baths. I listen to the NRL on the ABC and go to bed at 9:30 pm. It is now 12°C.

Weather: Fine, max 21ºC Arrived: Burren Junction Time: 12:25 pm Distance: 173.4 kilometres

Day 25 – Sunday 1 September 2024 – Burren Junction

Weather: Fine, 8.3ºC minimum

I sleep very well till 5:30 am when a train carrying grain goes past. I wake properly at 6:00 am. I read my book, then the paper. I get up at 8:00 am. I cook a bacon toasted sandwich. The bacon is the thickest I have ever seen. At 9:10 am I go to the baths again, 37°C now.

Back at camp I read the paper and then a book. I have lunch and read some more. I then go to the baths again and it is much warmer at 39°C. I have a cold shower after this as I was way too hot. I ring some friends in Sydney to check on them, they are going okay (they are over 80). At 2:20 pm I have afternoon tea.

I decide to go to the pub for a beer, so at 3:30 pm I head off, walking via the dirt road behind the baths. It is 3.6 kilometres to the Junction City Hotel. I have one XXXX Gold ($7.50) and walk back via the highway, 3.2 kilometres. I was very hot when I got to the pub as the temperature went up to 29°C.

Back at the camper at 5:20 pm I have drinks and nibblies and start a fire. I later cook a T-bone steak and have it with potato slices. I go to the baths again at 7:30 pm and the temperature is still very hot. After I read for a bit and then go to bed at 9:30 pm, it is 12°C.

Weather: Fine, max 29ºC Arrived: N/A Time: N/A Distance: 0 kilometres

Day 26 – Monday 1 September 2024 – Burren Junction to Premer

Weather: Fine, 7.7ºC minimum

I wake at 2:00 am for a while and then sleep till 6:00 am. I read a bit of the SMH and listen to the radio news. I get up at 7:45 am. It is now 13°C. I have breakfast and phone Donna for her birthday. Ron and her are still in Queensland I then pack up and move the car to near the baths at 9:20 am and have one last spa. The temperature is now back down to 37°C. I then have a proper shower, my first since last Wednesday (you don’t need to shower as the baths keep you clean).

I leave at 10:10 am and continue on the Kamilaroi Highway and arrive at Wee Waa at 10:45 am. I stop in the park next to the Wee Waa Lagoon and have morning tea. This is 48.4 km from Burren Junction. I leave at 10:55 am and arrive in Narrabri at 11:30 am (89.9 km). I park on the road behind the main street and have a quick walk around. I have never stopped here before, there are some nice buildings, especially the post office and Westpac and Commonwealth Banks

I leave at 11:47 am and continue on the highway south and then south-west. I arrive in Boggabri at 12:30 pm (117.9 km). I was hoping to have lunch at the pub but it does not open till 3:00 pm. Instead, I go to the park and make myself some lunch. I leave at 1:00 pm. I arrive in Gunnedah at 1:30 pm (186.0 km) and go straight to the fuel station on the outskirts. This one is another automated station. I take 87.21 litres at $1.799 a litre $156.89. I leave at 1:37 pm and take the Oxley Highway to the west.

Just past Mullaley I turn left onto the Black Stump Way and at 2:35 pm I arrive in Tambar Springs (256.9 km). I had planned on staying the night here but the free camping area next to the hotel is not real flat and it is very windy. The pub is closed Mondays too, so I will not be able to even try it out. I decide to go to my backup, Premer. This is just off the Black Stump Way via Purlewaugh Road. I arrive at the Premer Lions Park free camping area at 2:55 pm.

It is very windy now so I try to find some protection. There is a large covered BBQ area but it does not give much protection. There are a couple of vehicles parked near the hall and toilets. There is a 100th anniversary event for the town coming up and the two women were doing some work on it. They tell me they are leaving so I move there as the buildings a giving a fair bit of protection from the wind. I set up camp. It would have been a bit protected in amongst the trees, but I don’t fancy a branch coming down on top of me.

At3:30 pm I walk to the Premer Hotel which is 550 metres away. I have a couple of Tooheys Draught ($8 each). It’s a nice pub but the female working (publican or his wife) has no people skills at all and doesn’t even want to talk. I am back at the park at 4:50 pm. The wind has dropped so I fly my drone and then go to the BBQ area and read. I later cook onions and sausages on the free BBQ. I have two on bread and keep the other for later. It is very cold and the wind is back up so I cannot have a fire. I go to bed at 7:30 pm and read for a bit before going to sleep. It is 12°C but outside feels much colder.

Weather: Fine, max 26ºC Arrived: Premer Time: 2:55 pm Distance: 256.9 kilometres

Day 27 – Tuesday 3 September 2024 – Premer to Capertee National Park

Weather: Fine, 1.5ºC minimum

It was a very cold night, by far the coldest of the trip> I slept very fitfully, waking many times. Then I was awake from 4:00 am for most of the time. I read a book on my tablet a few times. I read the paper and then get up at 7:55 am. It is now 9°C. I have breakfast and fly the drone again. The wind is up a little, but nothing like yesterday.

I decide to go to Capertee National Park to a camping area I have not visited before. I book on-line ($12.30) and then get emailed a code to access the entrance gate into the camping area. I then have a shower (it was too cold last night to have one). The toilets and showers are clean. I pack up and leave at 9:40 am.

I head back to the Black Stump Way and head south. Approaching Coolah I pass the rest area where I stayed last year. I arrive at Coolah at 10:24 am (53.1 km). I visit the Vinnies without luck and then buy a caramel slice from the bakery for $5. I leave town at 10:35 am and travel via the Golden Highway. I At 10:55 am I stop at Leadville (82.5 km). I have morning tea and half of the caramel slice in the park.

I leave at 11:05 am and soon after turn south onto the Castlereagh Highway (again, I was on it a week ago in Queensland). I arrive at Gulgong at 11:45 am. I had thought I had been here before, but as soon as I walk around I realise I haven’t. This is a fantastic old town, with heaps of historic buildings and was of course on the original $5 note due to its relationship to Henry Lawson.

I only spend 20 minutes here as I still have a fair way to go. I decide I will have to come back another time and stay longer. I arrive in Mudgee at 12:20 pm but spend 10 minutes driving around to find a hotel where I can park. I end up back at the Court Houses Hotel which was the first one I saw. I go to the pub and order a hamburger ($18 with chips) and a Reschs Draught ($6.70 discounted as I am a member of the Reschs Appreciation Society).

The hamburger is very good as is the beer, good to have decent one for once. Despite it being sunny, it is quite a cool day with it only reaching 17°C. I leave at 1:12 pm. I travel via Lue Road and Bylong Valley Way to Rylestone. From here I take Glen Alice Road to Port Macquarie Road. This is the access road to the camping area. Apparently GoogleMaps takes you the wrong way if you try to go to the camping area direct.

On the way my sister-in-law Gail phones and asks me if I was in Mudgee today. Turns out they were also there and she saw my Facebook post about having a beer in the pub. She tells me that they are going to Coorongooba Camping Area at Glen Davis for the next couple of nights. I say I have already booked for tonight but may come there tomorrow.

On the way into the national park I stop and collect some timber off the side of the road. When I get to the gate there is someone already opening it so I don’t have to bother. They go to the homestead accommodation near the camping area. It is a good dirt road in with two (I think) very shallow creek crossings. I arrive at the camping area at 2:45 pm. I am the only person here but later some others come in.

This is a reasonably nice camping area, all grass with some sort of sites separated by rehabilitation sites. There is also a new toilet but that is it. I pick one and set up. I have a cuppa and then disconnect from the camper. At 4:10 pm I drive to the Valley Lookout which is 4.0 kilometres up the valley. There are great views back towards the camping area and I can see my camper when I look through my binoculars.

I arrive back at the camping area at 4:38 pm and have a shower. I then put a fire on and pack the shower away. I need some coals as I am cooking chicken winglets in my camp oven. At 5:30 pm I have drinks and at 6:05 pm I put the winglets on. They are cooked by 6:35 pm. I only did six and put the rest back in the fridge for tomorrow night.

It is freezing cold, only 1.5°C at 8:00 pm but 2.3°C at9:00 pm when I go to bed. I have set up the diesel heater and before I go to bed, I put it on and warm up inside.

Weather: Fine, max 17ºC Arrived: Capertee National Park Time: 2:45 pm Distance: 256.4 kilometres

Day 28 – Wednesday 4 September 2024 – Capertee National Park to Coorongooba CA, Wollemi NP

Weather: Fine, -4.7ºC minimum

Wow, was it cold last night or what? This was the coldest night I have ever had using the rooftop tent or camper trailer. The minimum was minus 4.7°C and there was ice on the inside roof and my water bottle froze. Despite this, I slept very well. I put the diesel heater on at 6:00 am as I need to melt the ice and warm the place up. Amazingly I got some internet and managed to download the SMH.

I get up at 8:00 am and the car is covered in ice as is the grass. I have left my kitchen out and it is all frozen too. I make a toasted sausage sandwich for breakfast and by 9:00 am it has warmed to 8°C. I pack up and at 9:45 am I leave the camping area. I have decided to go to where Stephen and Gail are camped. This is Coorongooba Camping Area in Wollemi National Park. It is right next to Glen Davis township where I camped two years ago with Veto (hence why I could not go into the national park). I will book once I get reliable internet.

I stop at old shearing shed as I leave. There are also some nice 4WD tracks in the park it seems. I will have to come back with my neighbours. I leave at 9:57 am. The gate has a fancy padlock with push buttons. You enter the code and it unlocks. When you put it back on, it locks itself. I go back to Glen Alice Road and head south past Glen Alice to Glen Davis. On the way I get internet and book the camping area. Stupidly, the cost is only the booking fee of $6 which covers multiple days. Does not make sense that it is basically free when it is a better camping area with more facilities than where I stayed last night.

I arrive at Coorongooba at 10:50 am and find Stephen’s car and caravan. However, they are not here and I figure they are out walking. I have a cuppa and then set up camp near them. This is a very large camping area with nice grass everywhere. It is on the Capertee River and there are a couple of toilet blocks. Strangely, there is apparently a map that says certain parts are for certain types of camping. For example, camper trailers in area A, caravans in B, motorhomes in C and tents in D. Does not make sense at all and everyone I am sure ignores it, especially if you are a mixed group.

I then fly my drone as this is one of the most spectacular places you will ever see, with shear cliffs to the east, north and south. I then try to fix a new chip in my windscreen which happened when a car went onto the side of the road instead of staying on the road! I sort of succeed, but the kit is now empty.

I have lunch and Stephen and Gail return about 1:10 pm. They have walked a fair way along the river to the south. Later, Stephen drives us to Glen Davis as they have not been there. I show them the camping area here. It looks like someone is doing up the old general store and perhaps opening it as something else.

On the way back we stop at a sign that says lookout. We go for a walk and find that it overlooks the abandoned Glen Davis Shale Oil Refinery. This operated from 1938 till 1955 making petrol from shale. It is very similar to the nearby Newnes Shale Oil Refinery in the Wolgan Valley to the south. I do not understand why the sign is not more prominent nor mentions the refinery views. To be honest, the ruins should be in the national park rather than on private land. You can only visit them on Saturday afternoons via an expensive fee ($25 per person).

We get back and I make afternoon tea for us all. Later Stephen and I walk to the river and have a look around. We do not find a spot to swim, it is too shallow. I have set up my shower so at 4:40 pm I have a shower. At 5:00 pm we start a fire and I make a damper. I put it on later and it is cooked in 20 minutes. It is perfect. We have with real butter.

Later I cook the rest of my winglets for dinner. We sit around the fire and chat till 9:45 pm when we go to bed. I am soon asleep. It is now 10°C. Interestingly, Stephen says it was nowhere near as cold here this morning as what I had only 30 or so kilometres away.

Weather: Fine, max 18ºC Arrived: Coorongooba Camping Area Time: 10:50 am Distance: 173.4 kilometres

Day 25 – Sunday 1 September 2024 – Coorongooba CA to Home

Weather: Overcast, 2.5ºC minimum

I sleep well and wake at 6:00 am. The temperature now is 6°C, the coldest was about 2:00 am. I get up at 7:20 am. It is quite cool as there is a breeze from the south.

Last night well after dark a campervan came in and camped near us. At the time we wondered why someone would camp so close to us when there was so much space everywhere else. This morning we found out that the occupants were a newly married Spanish couple. Somehow he has no water, looks like the company he hired from (they only arrived in Sydney this morning) did not fill the water tank. Stephen and I donate 20 litres each and we transfer it into his tank.

We also help them with their itinerary. They want to see beaches, so it is not real clear to us why they have come this way. We tell them some very nice places to visit in NSW and Queensland, both on the coast and inland.

I have breakfast and then remove everything from the inside of the camper. Sheets, towels, blankets, doona and all the other things I have there (except the mattresses). I pack up as late as I can so that the canvas can fully dry out. I leave at 9:15 am. Stephen and Gail will leave later.

I stop at Lithgow at 10:33 am (84.1 km), it is now sunny and warmer at 18°C. I have morning tea here and leave about 10 minutes later. I am travelling via Bells Line of Road rather than the Great Western Highway as I am going to go to Seatec Aquasuits as I have to get some measurements taken for my new drysuit. I arrive there at 12:22 pm.

I get measured by the owner Brian and leave at 1:05 pm. I stop for fuel at Padstow (cheaper than near my place by a long way). I take 92.91 litres at $1.777, $165.10 (a surcharge involved). I arrive home at Kareela at 2:10 pm. I unload everything from the car and camper and then put the camper back in the carport almost first go (it is very hard to get it into the spot it needs to go, normally takes me a dozen or more attempts).

Weather: Fine, max 26ºC Arrived: Kareela Time: 2:10 pm Distance: 239.5 kilometres

SUMMARY

This was another great trip. I visited a lot of places I have been to before, but some I have not been to for 40 years or more. Others were only visited last year and some were totally new. And of course the Mundi Mundi Bash was fantastic.

Kilometres: 4,348
Litres:613.2
Cost: $1,160.07
Fuel economy: 14.1 l/100 km
Other: $130 camping, $20 dinner, $100 drinks, $100 groceries